Best Views of Paris

When you come to Paris, you will visit the top of the Eiffel Tower. I have, twice already, and will probably do so again before I leave in May. As one of the most visited attractions in the world since its erection in 1889, it is almost shameful not to go to the top while you are here. If that is not enough of a reason, just think of how you will be forced to repeatedly explain upon your return home.

Family and Friends - How was Paris?
You - Great
Family and Friends - So did you go to the top of the Eiffel Tower?
You - Um, nope.
Family and Friends - Why not?

During the day you are likely to encounter heavy haze. Nonetheless you will be able to get a good idea of the city layout and will observe that Montmartre really is quite the hill. Trace the Seine as it envelopes Ile de la Cité and Ile Saint-Louis, straight out into the suburbs that surround Paris in every direction. At night the most spectacular sight is looking up at the thousands of lights that decorate the tower. Just be sure to go early and avoid the lines. At the least you will enjoy the four elevator rides you will have to take up and back.

Now that I have given that winning endorsement I can get to the point: there are much better places from which to view the lights of the city.

best day view
CENTRE POMPIDOU

I am not one for modern art but I am eager to absorb all of Paris and having received rave reviews from friends, I was happy to accompany Alex to the Centre Pompiodu on a Sunday afternoon. In the end I really appreciated, even liked, a lot of the artwork in the museum. Even if I had not, the visit would have been worth it just for the experience travelling up through the hamster like tubes that serve as the building's main artery between floors.

I had just finished reading Dickens's A Tale of Two Cities. Of all the places I have been to in Paris, the view from the Pompidou is the one that most closely matches the description I took from the book. More exactly, it matched perfectly the image of Paris I had before arriving in the city. The Paris of dreams. Namely, Paris rooftops.

If you are short on time don't bother skip the lineups for a ticket to the museum and go straight to the hamster tunnel where you will find an escalator to the café on the top floor. I have heard from friends and read in reviews that the George Pompidou is overpriced and serves terrible food, yet, despite their complaints, everyone continues to recommend it.

best sunset view 
MONTMARTRE

Take the metro to Abbesse and enjoy an afternoon exploring the historical artist neighbourhood of Montmartre. As the day is coming to an end, take a seat among the crowds of tourists on the front steps of the Basilique du Sacré Coeur and watch the City of Lights unfold across the horizon with the sunset. Off to the left look for the two towers of Notre Dame, straight ahead is Montparnasse and to the right you'll see the Eiffel Tower.

A group of local teenagers will provide the music, strumming on their guitars. Don't expect a romantic moment to last however: it is sure to be interupted more than once by someone trying to sell you an overpriced heineken from the 12 pack under their arm. Thankfully you came prepared with wine!

When you leave be careful to go straight south to Boulevard de Clichy or even better west to Metro Abbesse. To the east is the neighbourhood surrounding Gare de Nord where you should not be caught after dark.

best night view
ARC DE TRIOMPHE

When my parents were here last fall we braced ourselves against the evening breeze and climbed the 284 stairs to the top of the Arc de triomphe. The street lights and billboards line the full length Champs-Elysées so that you can see straight down to the Obélisque de Louxor in Place de la Concorde. Turn around and you'll see what looks like a doorway into another world but is actually just the massive cube shaped monument known as the Grande Arche. What is most special is the spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower. After dark the metal structure is illuminated by 20,000 light bulbs, which sparkle for five minutes every hour on the hour.

City Guide: Luxembourg City in October

Back in October, I spent my two weeks vacation traveling with a friend through Benelux. Our Eurail pass took us to Luxembourg City, Brussels, Brugge, Amsterdam and back to Paris. To end the trip, we took a flight to Barcelona to celebrate our birthdays.

Our first destination was by far the most picturesque leg of this trip. Luxembourg has something for everyone. Just over two hours from Paris by high-speed train, it is an ideal place for backpackers to enjoy a break from the large tourist centers and hostel parties en route to Amsterdam or Berlin. With thirteen Michelin star restaurants this county has the most per capita in the world and is perfect for a romantic getaway.

Rich in history owing to its location and national geography, Luxembourg City, otherwise known as the "Gibraltar of the North",  was for a longtime one of Europe's greatest military strongholds. The first fortifications were erected in the tenth century by Siegfried I.  For centuries it was passed between Europe's leading powers: from the Spanish and Austrian Empires to the Prussians, the French and back again. Its military history finally came to an end in 1867 with the Treaty of London which for the good of European peace required Luxembourg to demolish the fortifications, a process which took over 16 years. 

Be sure to take a walk through what is left of the (1) Bock casemates to get a feel for Luxembourg's military history. If you lack the motivation to make the steep jaunt down into the Grund hop on (2) The Petrusse Express which stops by the (3) "Gella Fra" Memorial on Boulevard F.D. Roosevelt. The mini-train will take you on an hour tour of the city while the audio guide provides an interesting narration of Luxembourg's folk history to the majestic music of regional composers. Be on the look out for the (4) Quirin chapel, a fourteenth century church built into the rock. 

Stop for a cup of the Caramel Bourbon Vanilla flavoured hot chocolate at the (5) Chocolate House which sits right across from the (6) Palace of the Grand Dukes. You might even get a chance to see the Royal Family! Not too far is the Place d'Armes which is the heart of the shopping district. 

On a monday night when most restaurants are closed and with a restricted budget, we opted for pub fare at Urban City Bar and Restaurant. The food was delicious and plentiful, the atmosphere was cozy and the beer was cheap. Equally recommended as a fun place to have drinks later in the evening. 

If you are spending the night, note that we did not have a good experience at the Fort Reinsheim. Located outside the city centre, the rooms were less than impressive and overall not a fun hostel experience. We nearly got locked out for the night! For just a few more euros opt to stay at the Hotel Parc Belle-Vue.

Montparnasse Cemetary

Last sunday Paris was 12 degrees and sunny.  I had lunch on a park bench and took a long walk through Montparnasse cemetery.  Located in the shadow of Tour Montparnasse not far from the southern tip of Jardin du Luxembourg, this cemetery is wrongfully overlooked by tourists (Père-Lachaise gets all the attention).  Many french artists and intellectuals are buried here including Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvais as well as the most beloved Serge Gainsbourg.

Photo Journal: Gaudi's Barcelona

Photo Journal: Amsterdam

Tulips everywhere

So many bikes!

Photo Journal: Brussels

Mannekin Pis in Candy form

The Grande Square

Photo Journal: Brugge

More Paris! to end October

On our way down the Eiffel Tower

The most beautiful Gallerie Lafayette

The sun setting on the Louvre

Paris is a cold and grey!

My girlfriend Andrea arrived on Friday amidst the strikes. We are spending a fun filled week in Paris before we venture off to explore all that Benelux has to offer us. Spent yesterday shopping around St Germain and today around the Montmartre boutiques. 

Spent Saturday avoiding sun showers. Taken from the Jardins de Tuileries.

Graffiti in the St. Germain

A market in Montmartre